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One of the great strengths of our Club is its multi-faceted nature for not only are our members involved in the various aspects of sourcing, restoring, and maintaining their cars, but our activities list also includes items such as technical seminars and work bees, tours of varying dimensions, display opportunities, social functions, varying degrees of interest in era fashions, and the cohesion provided by having an excellent Clubhouse complete with a comprehensive historical and technical library as well as a finely tuned website.

With this diversity however comes an equivalent diversity of membership and various members therefore harbour various interests and skill-sets, which of course means that while some may be technical and mechanical wizards, many are also in a position to occasionally desire and appreciate a bit of technical advice and assistance. In that regard any members desiring a bit of advice and assistance may elicit same by either sending an e-mail to the Club for our Publications Director to relay, or by contacting any member of the Executive listed on page one of the Script, who will either respond or re-direct the query or request.

Should a request be for a garage tour instead of just for advice or information, it should be relayed to the ‘Tours and Activities Director’ to be integrated into our regular activities schedule.

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Welding is an important part of most restorations, whether you do it yourself or have it done by a shop. Knowing a good weld from a bad one is very important! A good weld has a nice even bead. The metals are bonded and the filler rod is just there to fill the gap that occurs between the pieces being bonded.

There are three types of welding, oxy/acetylene, TIG and MIG. All three will produce a good bond if done properly. They all require the same accurate degree of skill. Welding is almost an art form. Having just the right touch will keep the metal flowing smoothly.

Over the years I have seen examples of both good and bad welds. One good one was done using coat hanger wire. Although not the best rod to use due to the coating in the wire, it made a good bond.

A welder has to be aware of the area surround their work. In one case there was a wood frame behind the area to be patched. So much for the wood, gone!

A welder who should have known better tack braised a piece in place using a brass rod. Steel does not mix well with brass. The dissimilar metals can cause corrosion in the weld. Not a lasting bond.

During the Club arranged \"Introduction to body work\" course at SAIT we were given the chance to try the different methods. The process is not difficult but does require practice.

Finding a good instructor is a great help. It is easy to burn two pieces of metal together, but to get a good bond it has to withstand a torture test, bending. If the bond holds you have a good weld. If it breaks, you still have more practice ahead of you. Be careful not to burn yourself. Wear a good darkening helmet and gloves. A leather apron will also protect your clothing. I know you see pictures of people not wearing any of this gear however you would rather be safe than sorry.

Sid Gough - Technical Editor

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After a restoration project is complete there are likely a few parts that were duplicated for what ever reason, a better part was found or, you had to buy \"the whole collection\" to get the part you wanted. Now what are you going to do?

If storage space is no problem, you keep them for the next project. Unfortunately most of us are not in that situation. Keeping large parts such as doors or fenders is a major problem. The alternative is to sell the parts.

The value of anything depends on what someone is willing to pay. To get the best price the part should be in the best condition possible. Time spent cleaning and maybe painting the piece can increase the value and lead to a faster sale. A part that looks like it just came out of a junk yard will most likely get a very low offer. Parts that are identified and tagged can help someone new to the hobby find the correct part for their project.

Advertising in the Script and asking \"Other Clubs Please Copy\" can reach a lot of prospective buyers.

Reading the \"Parts Wanted\" ads is also a good way to find customers.

If you do have the wanted part, contact the buyer. Even if you do not make a sale, you may get some idea of what people are willing to pay. Don't keep parts that someone may need stored in an old shed. Be a Santa and help a fellow restorer get their A on the road for Spring.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

Sid Gough - Technical Editor

PS If anyone knows of a source for AA brake springs on a non Ford rear end let me know.

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Some time ago I wrote a column based on my aviation background. It dealt with looking for water in the fuel system.

It is still relative today.

With our ever changing temperatures and snow or rain that increases the humidity, condensation is possible in the fuel system.

Cars stored in cold storage are at the greatest risk. If water freezes the ice can expand and exert pressure on the gas tank, fuel lines and carb. If the pressure is great enough it can split fuel lines, the carb and even the fuel tank.

Water is heavier then gasoline therefore it will settle to the bottom of the tank or carb bowl.

Using a clear glass jar, drain a small amount of fuel (about 8 oz) into the container.

Allow it to sit for a few minutes. If water is present it will form a layer at the bottom of the jar. If water is found it will be necessary to continue to draw samples until water is no longer present.

Remember when handling fuel in a confined space there is always a danger of a fire hazard.

Be safe and have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Sid

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Tech Talk

Technical Advice and Assistance for Club Members

Welding on Model A's

Spare or leftover parts

Water in The Fuel System

Quick links

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